The new door will end up, eventually with leaded glass, the dry seal systems I’ve seen won’t cope with the irregular surface. So I will need to use linseed putty or perhaps silcon?

Thanks for your comments. Your “two cents worth” welcome any time.

Cheers
Andy

My two cents worth …

I would use a tee shaped centre leg pile carrier in the door as it would be
held in place by the fins on the carrier. It can be routered out and it can be
removed and fitted back no problem, as it does not need an adhesive and is a lot stronger than the above pile carrier.

Adding a pile carrier in to the stile of an old door would not my first choice to draught proof a door, but sometimes it’s the only opition.

On the door I would use the dry seal glazing system putty, as the above can cause problem if the glass needs to replaced at some stang damage to time etc and it will in time break down.

I love the site Andy, well done keep up the great work…

Glad you found it useful, sorry about the lack of link, I’m still learning.

If the door swells, the strip would have to pulled out so the door could be planed. The groove would also need to be cut deeper.
I should point out that, in theory, the chances of swelling should be reduced as damp air is no longer blowing and condensing on the door edge.

The pile carrier has a self adhesive strip on the back. I also cut the groove so carrier is a good push fit. It is fairly easy to prise out for any adjustments.

This technique should work just as well on a door that opens outwards.

Single glazing shouldn’t be draughty unless the putty/ sealent has gone. A beed of acrylic or silicon should fix the problem. Another idea to reduce heat loss would be to fit secondary glazing. I’ve done a DIY secondary glazing job on a window. I’ll have to take some pics and write it up.

Good luck with the oak door. I’ve just had a delivery of timber for my windows and added some extra for a front door. We want a solid looking victorian style door. The wife is excited to the point she has just bought antique door furniture from ebay. So I’ve not got the luxury of “one day” anymore.

Andy

Just read your page on Draught Proofing (sorry, I couldn’t see a link for adding comments there?). I really like your cheap solution, which remains hidden while the door is closed.

Only issue I can imagine (where you groove the door) is that, if the door swells in width during wet weather, it would be a right bugger trying to plane the edges down… (Unless you own a rebate plane!) Did you glue the strip in place? Could it be screwed in for easier removal or adjustment?

I’ll definitely have to give that a try, some time. Do you think it would work as-well on an outward-opening exterior door?

Our back door is only single-glazed, which also lets a lot of cold air through. Do you know if there’s anything that can be fitted to the inside of the glazing to reduce these draughts?

(One day, I will get around to making an oak door to replace it…)

Olly.