Sliding Sash Window Design (Double Hung) History
By Andy the stuff doer
The Sliding Sash Window, or Double Hung Window as its called in America, is showing a massive upsurge in popularity.
It’s an fantastically successful design. A 100 or 200 year lifespan is proven. Compared to around 20 years for uPVC windows, the timber sliding sash window is a winner.
In these days of energy conservation the traditional Double Hung Sliding Sash is unsuitable as a replacement window. Unfortunately the tradition design is unsuitable for fitting the double glazing units that regulations stipulate.
Many companies now manufacture alternative designs, some good, some in my opinion, very bad. It’s obviously a highly profitable market, with strong demand and high margins.
A couple of years ago, I embarked on project to build my own double glazed sliding sash windows. No suitable plans where available so (as a trained designer) I set about researching the subject in great detail.
This post relates to the my Synopsis of sliding sash window history. Read the article over on my website.
An understanding of historical window designs to inform 21st century developments
I’ve analysed the construction details of the Box Sliding Sash. (Available soon.) This has allowed me to fully understand the tried and tested construction. It highlights where, in the light of modern developments, the design can be evolved. I’ll be publishing construction details and plans for an evolved, traditional sash window shortly.
The final part of project will be available as a set of plans, details and explanations for a 21st century fully evolved sliding sash windows. Combining technology with craftsmanship, these windows can be built in a shed with a minimal investment in tooling.
Any comments or thoughts or INTEREST ? Please give me you feedback below.
Historial Influences on the Design of Sliding Sash Windows
I want to build my own sash windows. Is there an ebook or plans or explaination of your work? I am interested.
Hi John,
I’m working on the plans now.
I’ll be putting something together on single glazed sashes windows first.
At the same time I’m starting to build my own double glazed version. Recording all the build techniques and putting the plans together.
I’ll let you know of any progress.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy
I’m an English carpenter in France.
It’s strange to see that continental influences produced the sash window.All windows I,ve seen in this country open inwards instead of outward in GB.I,ve yet to see anything ressembling a sash in rural France.In fact some French clients of mine who like English
style stuff speak of sash windows as typically English. Mind you French polish is English polish in France!!?!?Really enjoyed the videos especially the door build.Thanks very much,
Regards Nigel.
Thanks Nigel,
The “tall” window style came across the channel with the architecture. In France these windows weren’t counterbalanced so not very practical. The English developements didn’t seem make it back over the water. It would be interesting to explore what political / social / climate differences caused the explosion of popularity here but not on the continent.
The inward opening casement will be where we get, what we call “French Doors / Windows”
Cheers
Andy
I have 6 windows i need to built – no rush this year but i hope your experiences will stop me having to repeat mistakes – im most interested in the tolerances of the parts to slide etc.. correctly . All my windows are modern but i have got 1 original sash from a skip down the road for my profiles etc.. Anyway enough said – i want to be kept updated please
Col
Col, Apologies for the delay in responding.
You’ve picked up on detail of tolerances and gaps so the sashes slide well. It’s a interesting point, one that’s hard to find solid info about. However I’ve nearly got my research and analysis of traditional sashes completed, it covers the”gaps”. I’ll be posting it ASAP, good job your not in a rush!
Something you should consider: If you are replacing modern windows then the new ones “should” meet building regs in the UK. That means double glazing, saftey, ventilation that can be passed by the “man from the council”. Unfortunately the old profiles won’t work for up to date windows, they cant take double glazing in a way that will last.
I am getting closer to publishing the plans for my ” High Spec” sliding sashes, I’m building 5 at the moment to check detail changes from the prototype. All I need is more hours in the day!
Cheers Andy
Hello,
The front door video was perfect timing for me as I have to make a ‘non standard’ internal door this month.
The sash window article is of interest. I have a an old house which appears to be made up of different sizes sash windows, must have been made up with leftovers from other Victorian house builds. I have made a couple of sashes using the originals as patterns but now would like to make the box section too. I have a few pages from an old book giving details of making a box sash which is enlightening but a modern version would be a better way forward so will be looking for your write up on it.
I am curious as to whether you will be using lead weights and dividers or use the the modern spiral spring mechanism. Have to admit I am not a fan of them as they look wrong.
Keep the good work up.
Regards
Terry
Terry, Glad to hear the videos are useful.
I’m of the same opinion as you when it comes to the counter balance. I don’t think spiral balances look right. I also have my doubts as to how long they will last. With the traditional weights it’s only ever going to be the cords that need replacing.
Having said that, sprial balances do make for a simplified and cheaper build and can be used when the brickwork hasn’t got the space to take the box part of the frame.
I really do need to get a move on with the window plans, I’ll see if I can accelerate progress
All the best, Andy
Posted from a recent email-
Hello
just found your site. Very interesting.
I’m as hopeless at DIY as anyone you can imagine so have decided to get a local joinery company to install wooden sash windows to help restore my Victorian workers cottage.
Am trying to make sure I ask as many relevant questions as possible . One of them has been to ask what type of softwood would be used for the box frames, sashes and cills.
The reply I’ve received re box frames and sashes is “…6th grade joinery softwood which would be treated with rot proofing liquid after assembly then primed”
On the cills, reply is “… softwood….. but utile hardwood could be used instead at slightly increased cost”.
I wondered from your experience if I should be asking further questions?
Was hoping to get this work done before Autumn but it hasn’t been possible. Someone has suggested postponing until Spring as too late in year to be doing a decent paint job on windows. Any thoughts?
There’s a few point from the above email:
Good to hear you are doing a “proper” restoration job. Just thought I should mention, if youare replacing complete windows you might have to consider building regs, unless the joinery company is acredited and sorting that side of things. It could be, that to comply the windows will have to be double glazed.
“6th grade joinery softwood” you might whant to have read of this: http://www.idostuff.co.uk/sections/DIY/Timber%20selection%202.html
SO, I’m not sure they put much thought in to that answer.
“treated with rot proofing liquid” – Some might reccomend pressure treating, no treatment is 100%. The first line of defence is to make sure the wood doesn’t get wet and stay wet. Paint (including primer) sould be good quality micropous. That combined good design should allow the timber to dry out if there is any ingress. The glazing seal or putty has to be in good condition. If the moisture content of the timber is below around 20% rot can not set in.
I’ve been using linseed oil based paints. The joinery company may not want to do this but its something to consider. have a look at: http://www.holkhamlinseedpaints.co.uk/
I know some folks will always use oak for the cills, it’s an extra precaution. However i’m happy using a good piece of softwood. After all oak will rot if its moist.
I should point out, I’m am bit pedantic. If the joinery company is good, with satisfied clients they probably know what they are doing. So may be the biggest question is, “Can I see some of the windows you have made and installed for others ?”
Hope this helps
Andy
Andy
thanks. I live in a Conservation Area and have obtained planning permission, so that aspect of work covered.
The joinery company has done my next door neighbours cottage and appear to have done a good job.
In your advice on the best timber for windows you recommend “best unsorted (U/S) redwood”.
excuse the ignorance but what does “unsorted” and “U/S” mean?
cheers
Tim
Tim,
Good to see you’ve got the planing bit covered and they did a good job next door.
U/S is Unsorted. It’s supposed to be the good bits of timber left when the poorer quality 5ths, 6ths and possible 4ths have been taken out. Although it depend on the timber merchant to carry out the grading. I choose my pieces down in the yard so at that point it is sorted, my me, for the 1sts and 2nds. For windows it needs to be fairly clear of knots with close straight grain.
Redwood is what they call the various types of Pine (not always red in colour). The quality varies bettween spiecies and the region it’s from. Whitewood is Spruce – like you get in packs from DIY sheds.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Tim Ive just dicovered you blog and i am very interested in your sash windows especially if you have a design for double glazed sashes. I have’nt made a sash for many years but have a fully equiped work shop so should be able to make almost anything. Does your design include draught proofing strips and have you discovered if a double glazed unit will be to heavy for the weights. do you think your designs will conform to building regulations. Sorry to be so noy but it is something I have thought about for a long time and as usual have not done anything about it now of course I have a friend who wants to build a traditional bay window on his victorian house and sop the story begins. Many thanks for you hard work
John
Apologies for the spelling
Hi John,
Don’t fret about spelling, I’m hopeless.
Yes the design has draught proofing, brush strip. To balance the DG units I use lead. The designs will conform to buiding regs.
Once again I appologies to every one who is interested. I have been diverted from finalising and publishing the plans BUT I will get there in the end.
Cheers
Andy
This is a really interesting article, as it is interesting to find out where specific design came from, to create what is present today. Thanks for sharing.
I love what you’re doing on your site. I’m over here in Chicago rebuilding my house and I’m thinking about building my own sash windows I would love to take a look at your plans and if it’s an shook I would definitely buy it.
Hi Tim
I am very interested and looking forward to seeing your plans
Gary
Thanks Gary, I really do need to get cracking with the plans.
Andy
Very interesting – I’ve subscribed to your RSS, and am looking forward to seeing your plans. No rush, mind!
Hi there,
Just discovered your site, really great resource. I’ve just started studying bench joinery and furniture making so will pass the link on to my fellow students, the door making vids are spot-on , love all the tricks with the table router!
Look forward to the window plans too. All the best.
Interesting blog, but as a joiner who specializes in reproduction joinery, particularly Georgian box sash windows I am not that impressed with your woodworking skills or knowledge of construction methods and materials; European redwood and spruce are completely unsuitable materials in the long run, especially spruce! Red cedar or Douglas fir are. You state that double hung sash windows are no longer viable because of energy requirements and this is false, it is totally possible to build traditional type sash windows with double glazing, weatherproofing and weights. Using slimlight glazing panels (these are even available with crown glass) argon filled of 10mm thickness you can even use glazing bars of 5/8′, 16.1mm. I can and have built such windows that meet modern regs and are virtually indistinguishable from Georgian sash windows although they are not cheap. It is insulting to proffesionals that you would think that you can pick up a teachable knowledge of sash windows and joinery without any proper training or real experience beyond some DIY.
Thanks for your comments Mr. Quatermas. You have raised some interesting points that I think I can address.
1. I’m not setting out to impress estabilished joiners, I’m mearly passing on the knowledge and experience I am gaining from my perspective in the hope its interestering or useful to others.
2. I agree spruce is unsuitable for making windows, “My Choice – the best Unsorted (U/S) redwood, you can find.” . You do qualifiy your statement with “in the long run” which does bring out the compromises we have to consider, like: durability, longevity against availability and cost. I could advise Oak as being superior but there are plenty of 100 + year softwood windows surviving to this day.
3. I actually state ” In these days of energy conservation the traditional Double Hung Sliding Sash is unsuitable as a replacement window. Unfortunately the traditional design is unsuitable for fitting the double glazing units that regulations stipulate.” I agree Traditional style windows are possible. After all that is what I’m working on, the history I’ve written points out developments made due to changing technologies.
4. You point out that your windows are “not cheap”, which is why I embarked on this project. I can’t afford them and neither can most folks reading this. However it is possible for some people “without any proper training or real experience beyond some DIY” to make their own.
What does limit many of us non-professionals is a lack of plans and confidence borne of experience needed to make a start.
I hope my designs, eventual plans, experience gained, mistakes and successes will inspire others.
You don’t have to feel insulted, but I can’t help that. Many professionals are happy to help and advise others who have similar interests, others sometimes feel in someway threatened.
I am a, degree level trained and time served designer, I’m applying my skills to my development of sash windows to fulfill the brief I’ve set myself. This process does entail challenging common conceptions and as such I expect some controversy, so once again, thanks for the opportunity to address your points.
Regards
Andy
Thank you for such an interesting article. I have been building a house for the last 3 years and would like to make my own sliding sash windows, presently living in a Victorian building I consider not only the appearance but also the ventilating to be far more preferable than with side hung casements.
I look forward to your publication, so please advise me when it may be available.
Kind regards
Steve
Hiya, i would be very interested in how you got on with this project. I am currently researching sash windows and am completely won over by the timber sash for next time my windows meed replacing!
P.S – Andy, good response to L. Quatermas
Hi Nancy and Everyone who’s interested
The sash window Plans are on the DRAWING BOARD!
The Frames and Sashes for five of the finalised design are built and the glazing units are ordered. I’ve been photographing the build so I can add a “How to” section to the plans. Once again appologies for the delay, after a couple of quiet years my regular work has picked up so time has been in short supply.
Thanks for feedback on the reply, I was bit concered I’d gone OTT.
Andy
Thanks for sharing your work, look forward to reading more about your own sliding sash windows.
I agree with Nancy, a well reasoned and fair response to Mr. Q’s comment.
Ger
would love to see how to make a sash window manual/video
what are the component parts of a sliding sash called and how do you replace sash cords
Steve, I’m working on some new content along with the plans. I might also cover the sash cords.
Hi,
Interesting stuff!
We own an 1896 victorian semi. There are 13 sash windows which I would be interested in replacing (roughly speaking: how may hours to build a double glazed replacement sash unit?). The kitchen window is a modern double glazed wooden casement window which is approximately 5′ wide by 3′ tall. How could that window be replaced with something in keeping with the rest which are all taller than they are wide?
WM
Hi Wayne,
I’ve not worked out how long they take to make yet. It’s something thing that I’ll to list of info I need to provide. But as a very rough estimate 16 hrs.
Have you consdiered renovation of original widows with good seals? It can be quite surprising what can be repaired and the difference modern seals can make.
The 5′ x 3′ window, I suspect, isn’t an original 1896 opening and definately not the right proportions for a sliding sash. There are a number of options to look at. I would consider:
a) Arts and crafts style (chunky) casement.
b) Yorkshire Sash.
c) Dividing the 5′ so only centre portion is a sliding sash.
d) Changing the size of the opening.
Hope this helps
Andy
Hi Andy,I have a house in Bulgaria and want to install some box sash windows.I cannot get into the attachment to find out how to layout and build the the sashes.Could you possibly send the infomation to my personal e.mail address. Many thanks Keith
Hi Keith, There is no attachment yet, I’m still working on it.
Here is a very cheap fix for rattling sash windows that I have come up with.
It reduces drafts and noise.
I found it worked well even on refurbished windows.
Interesting. What I can’t see from the description on your site is, how the sash will slide easily against the end of the machine screw. OR do you have to unscrew it. In which case it could also act as a security device. Simple, cheap and effective.
I would love to see the plans of the sash windows. I have been receiving quotes for new ones to replace the delapedated ones in the G2 we are buying. My bank manager is on the way to A and E !
Daniel
Andy,
Have you seen this page?
http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/caring-for-your-sash-case.pdf
I found it an interesting read and very informative
Daniel
Hi Daniel, I need a kick up arse to get the plans sorted. I’ll get back to you when they are done.
Did the Bank Manger split his sides laughing?
Andy
Very interesting stuff. I’ll return to see how you’ve got on!
But the window tax 1696 – 1845 was brought to finance a replacement coinage. The Excise Tax (glass tax) 1745 -1845..was quite a diffent tax and for a hundred years they coexisted.
Thanks David,
I should have cross checked my research. I’ll be amending the incorrect page shortly.
Apart from that, do you think I’ve got the rest of it right, is there much I’ve missed out? Does it give an insight to the developement of fenstration from a design technology perspective.
Cheers Andy.
Correction to http://www.idostuff.co.uk/sections/DIY/Sash%20Windows/Sash%20History%205.html made.
Well I’m waiting for this design to see if its any good
Hi
I have rad your page and am really interested in your project. I am a keen diyer and want to build my own sash windows.You mentioned in your blog that you have plans of the design. It would be great if you could make them available. I look forward to seeing them and getting on to make them.
Hi Salv,
I’m still in process of writing and drawing up the plans. I am making a concerted effort at the moment to get them finished. I’ll let you know as soon as they are available.
Regards
Andy
Hi Simon,
It shouldn’t be much longer to wait for the plans now.
Andy
Hi Andy, I’m really interested in making a sash window as I’m putting back the originals in my house. How’s the plans coming on?
Cheers Joe
Hi Joe, The plans are underway, unfortunately I keep getting distracted by my regular work. I’ll email your self and anyone else who shows an interest as soon as I’m getting close.
Andy
please let us know when your plans are ready we will be very interested as we have a lovely old house but need to replace a lot of 1700 windowns, thaks
Will Do.
Hello Andy,
Please put me on your list for the sash plans. C’mon now, don’t let two years go by!
Tony
Hi Andy
Like you were, we’re too broke to pay (recent quote) 1k per window. I’m handy with wood, so I would love to see how far I get with your plans.
Thanks A May-Zubel, The plans are on a slight hold at the moment whilst I’m checking if any design protection is worth sorting out first. I’ll post as soon as there is some progress.
Hello Andy
Saw you great vid in the PT 85. It has its downfalls but for the price and space saving looks like a good buy. Just one thing most of the reviews on this say the fence is poor and some people have made their own fences or made mods to it. As I am about to buy one i am sure that the fence will let me down but if a good mod is out there then i can make the changes myself. Any ideas. Thanks
Niall
Hi Niall, Good to hear you found the review useful. The fence mod I use is about as simple as it gets. It s a length of squared up 2 x 4″ hardwood, that a clamp to the out feed table. For the odd occassion I need this facility it works fine. If I’m jointing boards I tend to use the table saw as I find it easier to get a staight and square edge.